Giorno tredici

Today brings us one day closer to the conclusion of our trip and what better way to spend it than in Sorrento, Positano and the Amalfi Coast. Thus far, this trip has been high-octane, go go go search for food, wine and Italian culture. For those of you back home, be you loved ones, colleagues of both, this trip while a privilege, has been hard work. Both Ryan and I physically feel like we have been working long days for what is now 14 days in a row (if you count travel time) and while we are not due for a day off for a little while longer, today was a day of relative leisure.

We left the chaos of Napoli behind and headed just South to Sorrento. For those of you for whom this is unfamiliar, present company included, this area of Italy is impressively beautiful. Steep and lush hillsides dotted with old palaces, forts and gardens, windy narrow roads and some of the bluest water I have ever seen. For a brief while sitting overlooking a small port sipping espresso in the Mediterranean sun, I felt like I was on vacation.

We are staying in the guest house of a local family that has been here for several generations. The patriarch of the family, a retired boat captain in his 70′s, spends his mornings hunting for quail and his afternoons tending to his garden. This small estate, like so many others here, has beautiful lush gardens which evoke an Eden-like sense of plant fertility. Here alone, there is an apple tree, oranges, pomelos, pomegranates, kiwis, grapes, olives and of course, the aromatic lemons which give birth to lemoncello, the sweet yellow liquor. Carlo, the eldest son and our host and tour guide for today and tomorrow, makes a small batch of lemoncello, olive oil and even wine from fruit grown in this very garden. I hope they realize how lucky and special this part of the world is. I could definitely see myself happy living in a place like this (Don’t worry Lex).

After settling in, we walked down to the marina for a seafood lunch.
In an effort to be polite, I ate a few fresh local anchovies (ok, but
2 was enough to not draw attention), an octopus salad (good, but I prefer raw, ceviche or Spanish style with garlic and spices) and a great dish of Spaghetti Vongole with garlic, white wine and local clams. This plate of pasta was so good that I would endure 2 more anchovies just to eat it.

After lunch, we drove over the mountain to the south to the town of Positano. Twice before, I had heard from people that Positano was their favorite place in Italy. While I do not completely share their sentiment, I can understand why. Tucked into the hills, this beautifully preserved town snakes its way along the Southern face of the mountain range and reminds me of Santorini, Greece. It is no wonder then that both Positano recommendations came from couples. I have every intention of bringing my wife one day. Carlo, coincidentally, is friends with the son of the owner of Hotel Pietro. This Relais & Chateaux property is voted year after year the best and most beautiful hotel in Italy and top 10 in the world. We were given a jaw dropping all-access look and I’m blown away by its beauty. I couldn’t come close to affording a room even in the “off” season but a boy can dream.

From there, we continued on to Amalfi which is sadly overrun by tourists and there for a nick-nack souvenir shop and gelateria for every 5 people. But, I can say that I have been there and now cross it off my list. Tomorrow we have a cooking lesson with a local chef and then will be heading inland to a Buffalo farm famed for their real Buffalo milk mozzarella.

Hasta la pasta…